The coastal forest that backs onto the white sand beaches of the Elephant Coast is an entrancing place. Soft and sandy underfoot, the canopy is low and the light filtered through a dense, green umbrella. The air rings with the sound of monkeys, glimpsed flashing through the trees. Shy antelope like nyala and tiny red and blue duiker. Birds rare and common, dun and colourful flit from branch to branch and there is no sign whatsoever of the 21st century. You get to share this wilderness with no-one except your guide who can help interpret the forest for you and ensure you get the most out of it.